Gecko Towers
It may seem strange but managing expectations of your new life in Marbella is an important reality check. Many will conscientiously tell you about the climate, the beach and the myriad of sporting activities available for you to enjoy, but few will highlight elements that may be perceived of as a bit negative.
When we first moved to Marbella the ease with which you can now base yourself on the Costa del Sol and work from home (WFH) was a less developed concept. I continued to commute to my then day job in London. I’d usually leave on Monday evening returning Thursday evening ready for a Costa del Sol weekend. In my head, returning each weekend to the Costa del Sol was like a short holiday to this increasingly familiar holiday destination.
After a few months I realized that this was no longer simply a holiday destination it was Home. Home, was where my dear wife was settling and where our three treasured kids were laying down foundations of their new lives.
In seeing the Marbella area as Home, there are a few things that continue to be noted by the newly arrived, which can challenge your regular habits or alter elements that you may have become accustomed to in your former home.
With respect to our many Dutch, Irish, Swedish and US readers, these observations are largely seen through British eyes.
Shopping: Shops are not open for twenty four hours or for seven days a week. Much like the rest of the retail world they have realized in opening for seven days straight means a previous six days of trading is stretched to seven. Most stores – and some have seasonal hours – are open to 9.00 pm and some in the large malls to 10.00 pm.
If all else fails there are several “7-11” (or more accurately 8.00 am to 2.00 am of the Opencor/Supercor brands) type convenience stores, that command higher prices, but they will be able to supply a much needed bottle of milk at 8.00 am. In recent years there has also been a rapid increase in the majority of major supermarkets offering delivery services from an online order.
Restaurants – Some restaurants close on Monday and/or Tuesday for “Descanso” (to rest). These are the days when the staff who work often very long hours, get the chance to rest and recuperate. This can be frustrating but you will agree to mould your habits around your new home.
One of my late Mother’s favourite expressions was that “Visitor’s and fish go off in three days.” She was probably right on both counts. Importantly, and pre-deep freezing, it was rare for anyone to eat fish on a Monday given that Friday was the last day the boats would have set to sea! So Monday has become the restauranteur’s day of rest.
Outside high-end dining restaurants – which are invariably excellent – there may not be as many vegetarian options as you may have hoped for. This dynamic is changing but slowly, particularly outside the major towns along the coast.
It’s a relief that the majority of restaurants in Marbella have not yet opted for the London practice of asking for a credit card when you book to apply a penalty if you fail to show. Understandably irritating to scale a business up to meet reservations that then don’t appear but ‘twas ever thus…no?
Queuing – In Spain, queuing is not a national pastime. This doesn’t mean that there is a frenzied free for all at a bus stop or similar.
A most endearing custom, in the bank or post office, for example, is for the newly arrived customer to ask “Quien es el ultimo” (“Who’s last”). Generally those seeking the clerk’s assistance will monitor who’s waiting before them and they will indicate they are the last in the queue. This enables the arriver to be clear when their turn comes.
Another, equally charming retail custom, that is usually best seen at the supermarket check out. A shopper ahead of you, who has a basket overflowing with groceries, will note that you have only two items and they will often beckon you to go ahead of them – they realize they will hold you up for a disproportionate amount of time while they pick, pack and pay. Decency in action!
Builders – There is a perception that “Manana Culture” still exists in Marbella. Put simply this considered that asking a tradesperson to work on your property was a hit and miss affair. They may or may not turn up to finish a half completed job preferring to kick the can down the road and agreeing to finish at a later date.
In my experience it’s a misnomer and couldn’t be further from the truth.
If you having building work done at your home – an we are almost finished after an nearly two year project – expect the team to arrive at 8.00 am. Have a 30 minute coffee break at 10.00, work until 14.00 for lunch – often warmed up on site – and restart at 15.00 and finish at 17.00. Except on a Friday when its more usual to skip lunch to leave at 16.00.
Language – Don’t assume English is widely spoken, especially by the older community.
Prime Minister, Jose Luis Rodriguez Zapatero, who was in power from 2004 to 2011, made a crucial commitment to children leaving school with a respectable command of English. The Spanish education system and many after hours tutors focus on an increasing use of English. Many schools are gradually becoming bi-lingual for this reason but its slow.
Compared to when we arrived in 2002 the levels of English, particularly in Government or quasi-governmental situations, such as the local Town Halls, is far higher today than it was.
My recommendation is try not to live in an English language bubble. You will get more out of your Marbella experience by speaking Spanish as often as you can. I accept that I will never be a Mother Tongue speaker and I still make mistakes, many of them, but I have developed a level of bravado!
Pedestrians and “Zebra” Crossings – Pedestrian, for some inexplicable reason, seem oblivious, or at best ambivalent, to their own safety. This can be alarming to the unwary.
“Zebras” as the name suggests often black and white although in coastal towns, like Marbella, there are some blue and white examples. They are known the world over as a haven for the pedestrian to make their way, safely and in a controlled fashion, across a road. Cities, towns and villages have developed many of these areas to the state of high art with the addition of warbling “walking man” lights showing all, including for the hard of sight and hearing, when it is safe to cross and when the next opportunity to do so will present itself.
In Marbella, as probably elsewhere in Spain, there exists a peculiar phenomenon, that has been explained to me, in part, as arising from the somewhat fatalistic mind set held by many Spaniards. This oil and water mix occurs when a pedestrian and a zebra crossing meet. There is a prevailing speed at which those on the pavement stroll, perhaps at the average of a few kilometres an hour. Upon approaching the crossing our target pedestrian, maintaining their previous full-pace walking speed, launches themselves from the pavement onto the crossing. This often occurs at a time when the pedestrian seems completely oblivious as to the presence of any vehicle that may be approaching the crossing from either direction.
Now I accept that it’s not right to hit a pedestrian at anytime with a car. However, the pedestrian must expect, in failing to acknowledge that an approaching car, at even under the proscribed speed limit, needs a scintilla of time to brake in order to avoid mowing them down. A failure to acknowledge this and the result will not be a happy one.
Drivers please beware, as not all pedestrians can be trusted to act with prudence when they approach a pedestrian crossing, so added vigilance is required. Assume that you have not been seen and slow right down.
It’s rare to have a day when curling up to read a novel in front of a roaring fire is the primary option. If that’s your dream home then Marbella may not offer what you are looking for. Life in Marbella is very much more outdoors whether it’s sports, pastimes or hobbies much more of life takes place outdoors. Come and see for yourself!
Should you be interested in discussing the legal process involved in buying a property in the Marbella region, we would be delighted to assist you. Our multi-disciplinary team of bi-lingual, highly experienced and wholly independent Abogados and Asesores Fiscales are ready to help you.
Please call me, Mark FR Wilkins, during usual business hours on +34 600 343 917 or, if you prefer, or e-mail me at mark@roslegal.es
Please note that our posts are for general interest. There is no substitute for proper legal advice tailored to your specific circumstances as provided by a qualified Abogado who is experienced in the application of the Spanish Law.
Nothing contained in this article should be seen or taken as the writer or the publisher providing legal, tax or financial advice.
All details have been reasonably fact-checked and all efforts have been taken to ensure that facts are accurate as at the date of publication.
© Mark FR Wilkins 2023. All rights reserved.