Gecko Towers
Every now and then those of us who are very familiar with the thing that we blog about, need to stand back and put ourselves in the shoes of someone who has not had the benefit of our experience. In this case, I need to see the Marbella region through the eyes of someone with little or no familiarity with the place we call home.
It’s easy to be glib about Marbella. It’s become very standard to trot out the overwhelming advantages that we enjoy in this very blessed region. The climate, the sports, the lifestyle and the Mediterranean Diet. Oh! did I mention the sun?
There are unflattering cliches, of course, fueled, like in every other walk of life by a lessor or major case of the Politics of Envy. However, I anticipate that those who come cold to the Marbella region may well be a little overwhelmed at a sensory level. The Marbella region is simply not like anywhere else in Europe.
The brightness of the Costa del Sol, even on an overcast day is breathtaking and, usually, necessitates dark glasses. The bright summer’s sun, combined with the warm wind, chirruping of wildlife and the gentle lapping of the sea on the shore is inexplicably quixotic. For many tourist visitors, the climate, the gyms, the padel tennis courts, the beaches, the hiking and the horse riding are holiday pastimes. For us, who relocated, they are ways of life.
If the visitor explores outside the confines of their hotel or holiday complex they will discover the wealth of Spain, rich in local tradition, culture and cuisine. You will also find dusty back roads or field with donkeys or mules where it seems time has stopped. You’ll find shepherds playing flutes leading sheep or goats high into rosemary or asparagus clad hills. Many years later we still revel in the joy of discovery but it requires some effort to tread the less well trodden paths.
Let’s burst a bubble. Puerto Banus is not Marbella and vice versa – please see here – a piece I wrote about Puerto Banus after a particularly savage night – Puerto Banus – Mixed Feelings
My nostalgic view of Puerto Banus, that I first visited in 1982, is that it is steeped in luxury, gleaming yachts and designer shops. During the day it hums with conspicuous consumption. A breezy, light and happy location to people watch over a port-side coffee or cocktail. By night, away from the prestigious “Front Line”, it is regrettably, an all too different vibe, featuring street vendors selling fake watches, seedy vulgarity and inebriated raucousness. These two faces of a familiar friend are troubling but most metropolitan dwellers have the guile to deal with both and appreciate them equally for what they are.
Marbella by contrast is an elegant, jasmine-lined and ancient town, with its origins in a combination of sugar cane, fish and, more recently iron ore from the lower slopes of the emblematic La Concha, part of the Sierra Blanca range of mountains that skirt Marbella to the North and deliver the often talked about “MicroClimate”. Cited by many as the “Best In Europe”.
From the Fisherman’s Port to the East of the city boats go out daily to catch the classic blend of Omega 3 rich fish, sardines, sea bass and the occasional sole or tuna.
Its Roman old town centre, including the iconic “Orange Square”, has witnessed much over the years, but post WW2, Spanish nobleman, Ricardo Soriano, moved here becoming, among other things, a pioneer of tourism. Many rich and well-connected friends followed. In 1954, his nephew, Prince Alfonso de Hohenlohe-Langenburg, founded the world-renowned and sublime Marbella Club, which for many years set the benchmark for relaxed luxury. It continues to attract celebrities and those at the forefront of the arts, commerce and technology. Its old world almost regal charm is very well placed to deal with the discerning tastes of today’s visitors.
Over the many years, concentric with the success of the Marbella Club, other hotels have opened and thrived. In turn the number of wonderful high quality, Michelin Star and less opulent, restaurants, have kept pace with the developing taste of Marbella’s visitors and residents alike.
Please see a previous piece here – Are younger property buyers really disinterested by cheap booze and all day breakfasts?
What seems to surprise many new visitors is that Marbella is now “open” all year. There is a rhythm to life here, whether that’s golf, school holidays, Easter or the lengthy summer break, during which those with an increasing familiarity with the region return for their chosen pursuit or just to enjoy life. It’s to no one’s surprise that many – and this is born out by government statistics – are now truly seizing the day. Since post Pandemic 2022, they have relocated with their families in a “vote with your feet” moment of the Working From Home (WFH) culture now so prevalent in, especially the US, Canada and many Northern European cities.
Please see an earlier piece I wrote on the subject Is “I am working from Home” the new “Let’s meet at my Office”?
Investing time getting to know the Marbella region is worth every second of the time committed. Here, in a previous blog, I demonstrate to many visitors that there is a huge amount more to know about the Marbella region and at minimum its the best decision to turn right upon leaving Malaga airport – with the sea to your left – Get to know Marbella.
Although many homes, shops and offices are air-conditioned, much of our life takes place outdoors. In the summer, the mornings are often warm but not so uncomfortable that a trip to the gym is too oppressive. A quiet shaded corner of the garden for lunch, many office-based workers don’t want a sandwich at their desks, preferring to come home to eat followed by a cooling swim. The evening is dedicated to dinner, usually some barbecue of fresh, recently landed, fish or meat with plentiful of fresh salads dressed with incomparable and locally sourced, olive oil.
You will hear from time to time, particularly among the Expat community, that those who settled here pre-Brexit, often very warmly embraced their relocation experience. They invariably seek to become a competent Spanish speaker – noting that the Spanish of Malaga province – albeit it accented – is Castellan Spanish as opposed to that spoken in Valencia or Barcelona. They will take a nap – “Siesta” – after lunch when in the summer heat is at its fiercest.
They may also refer, even in English conversation, to something by the Spanish word for it. “Trastero” – meaning storeroom – is something that we have been using for many years as an alternative to the English word. There are others, many others, “lechuga” (lettuce), “botas” (boots), “ajo” (garlic) – it’s quite a list. This will become even more pronounced if you have kids being educated in the Spanish school system. They will usually become bi-lingual quickly – after often some months of frustration as they gain in confidence – and in so doing they may blur the lines of language which is not a problem.
This may irritate a new visitor. It is not some affectation that we do to make us feel superior, or distant, but more a way in which we can feel that we have started to integrate. Challenging the time-worn belief that Brits don’t settle well to a life in the sun. Well we did, and we are justifiably proud of the lives we have created.
I wanted to extend the hand of welcome to those interested to dip a toe in the water to see if it may fit their and their family’s ambitions. The post Brexit challenges aside – which can largely be neutralized – a determined approach to having more Marbella in your life will reap huge rewards. There will be frustrations, which are largely solvable by surrounding yourself with “best of breed” advisors.
We have immense experience in carving out our lives in the Marbella region but I still pinch myself when I see just how much my family and I gained from our personal journey to explore and settle in this European paradise. Quite possibly – the Best Place to live in Europe!
Should you be interested in discussing the legal process involved in buying a property in the Marbella region, we would be delighted to assist you. Our multi-disciplinary team of bi-lingual, highly experienced and wholly independent Abogados (Spanish Lawyers) and Asesores Fiscales (Tax Accountants) are ready to help you.
We are not estate agents, but we know some hard-working and reputable ones, if needed.
Please call me, Mark FR Wilkins, during usual business hours on +34 600 343 917 or, if you prefer, or e-mail me at mark@biznagapartners.com
You may also be interested to subscribe to my interactive FaceBook Group “Costa del Sol – The Best Place to Live in Europe” – please click this link – Costa del Sol – The Best Place To Live In Europe
Please note that our posts are for general interest. There is no substitute for proper legal advice tailored to your specific circumstances as provided by a qualified Abogado who is experienced in the application of the Spanish Law.
Nothing contained in this article should be seen or taken as the writer or the publisher providing legal, tax or financial advice.
All details have been reasonably fact-checked and all efforts have been taken to ensure that facts are accurate as at the date of publication.
© Mark FR Wilkins 2023. All rights reserved.