Gecko Towers
I first came to Puerto Jose Banus – to give its full name – in 1982 – when the Port – as many English speakers tend to call it – was already 12 years old. It was then still seen as the nadir of sophistication. The architects were the Russian-born naturalized Mexican, Noldi Schreck, who had previously designed the Marbella Club and elements of Beverley Hills and fellow Mexican, Marcos Sainz, who is still based in his beloved Port. It’s not hard to see the inspiration that continues to attract the cool people, the gleaming yachts, bars and simple restaurants.
In 2020 it celebrated 50 years, and invariably known by unhelpful epithets such as “The Port of Abuse”, having been through its fair share of cycles. While its geographic location is “Marbella”, the Port is not really Marbella. It is often confused for being that of Marbella, which actually boasts two ports, the Sporting Port and the Fisherman’s Port, neither of which are Puerto Banus.
Puerto Banus still attracts visitors to its iconic breakwaters which house some the most fabulous motor and sailing yachts Europe has offer. The range of “flags of convenience” reads like a who’s who of the Lloyds List. Facing the port are several hundred meters of shop fronts – known as “The Front Line” – and retail spaces that see high quality designer brands rubbing shoulder with locally owned bars, fish and pasta restaurants.
The magnet of Puerto Banus, seemingly regardless of the time of year you visit, is to be seen. For many simply driving – with the obligatory “port pass“ – along the Front Line in your gleaming super car or beautifully restored classic seems enough. The occupants often include girls in short, tight dresses, with enhanced figures, and thick eye brows, that seek to take their seats at one of the more sophisticated restaurants with their partner who has certainly spent some time in the gym.
Dining at a key side restaurant or drinking at one of the signature bars seems a compulsory element of a Costa del Sol holiday for many.
Bars are styled to attract golfers in large, braying groups of usually men, in bright, branded polo shirts with red necks and forearms, celebrating after mashie-niblicking a bogey on the back nine at one of the glorious golf courses that grace the Costa del Sol.
The iced cream shops, which are delicious, attract a younger crowd, many of whom seem to be smoking fruit flavoured vapes, as they act up to impress their friends under the watchful eye of local liveried security and the guys selling fake watches.
Older patrons, more obviously Spanish in origin, are well groomed. They walk arm in arm, taking in the sights and sounds of Puerto Banus as dusk approaches, on a pre-diner stroll.
There’s no getting way from it but there is something intoxicatingly attractive about Puerto Banus during the daylight hours. It’s not Saint Tropez attractive and it doesn’t pretend to be. It’s expensive but far from Saint Tropez expensive. The visitors are different, certainly younger, with younger families and they seems to be thoroughly enjoying the experience of people watching, of seeing and being seen.
The so called “Second Line” of the port is far less salubrious. Small bars and clubs seem to be dedicated to offering Stag and Hen Parties the “time of their lives”. And I suspect they deliver. Whether the “time of their lives” is recalled in the haze of the following morning is doubtful. Let’s not pretend that we are unaware of this style of binge evening. I have done it and I am sure you have too, but I do recall having distinctly mixed feelings over some poor decisions involving mixed drinks!
The seediness of the Second Line prompts many to seek to enjoy the later part of the night in a Club away from the many diversions that are undoubtedly available in Puerto Banus.
Like many things, Puerto Banus is a blank canvass onto which you can paint whatever you want it to be. For me, we have two compelling reasons to go to the Port in the evening. One is the Red Dog Cinema, in the commercial area that also includes a large El Corte Ingles department store. Who doesn’t enjoy seeing first run movies on the big screen? Discount day, Wednesday, is usually well attended. The second is the excellent Lebanese Resturant, “Baalbak”, located near to the Benabola Hotel on the Western end of the Port. They charmingly write “Snr. Marc” on the recycled and branded cardboard bags of their delicious take always as they await collection.
Whether you have enjoyed the solemnity of a “Virgin del Carmen” boat ride in mid-summer or a spin around the bay on a jet ski, you’ll know that Puerto Banus is dedicated to those who’s passion is to enjoy water sports. It is also a complicated allegory for a hedonism for which some parts of the Costa del Sol have been known. The best advice is to go to the Port during the day time and see for yourself whether it continues to evoke the sense Sean Connery cool, I think you may well be favorably surprised.
See here Julian Fernández‘ excellent video tour of Puerto Banus A Day in Puerto Banus
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